Damping Off - When Seedlings Fail

Damping Off - When Seedlings Fail
By Michael J McGroarty

One of the most heartbreaking moments for any gardener may occur in early spring when their carefully-tended seedlings suddenly keel over and die, seemingly for no apparent reason. This occurs most often in seedlings that have been started early indoors, and the cause is typically one of several soil-borne plant diseases collectively known as damping off.

The various fungi that cause damping off are all found naturally in soil, and although damping off can also occur in the garden, it is more often a problem in indoor-planted seedlings. The fungi make their way into the indoor germination area by riding along on gardening tools that were used in infected soil, or by planting in infected soil or by planting infected seeds. Some damping off fungi will also reside in plant debris, and it can even survive on gardening gloves that were worn in the previous season's garden.

Damping off symptoms vary slightly depending on the specific fungus that created the problem. It is not necessary to know the names of the various fungi that cause damping off, but it is important to recognize the symptoms they cause. It is also important to understand that once seedling are infected with damping off fungi, they are goners, dead, kaput and they cannot be revived.

Therefore, the best way to deal with damping off is to prevent it from infecting your baby plants.

Seedlings that have been infected with damping off will quickly fail. One day they look just fine, and the next day they are withered, fallen over and dead as doornails. Seedlings may discolor or wilt suddenly, their stems may develop dark lesions or become slimy or they become water-soaked, thin and weak near the soil surface, or the roots may rot and blacken.

Some damping off fungi cause the seedlings to develop a white or gray mold. Pre-emergence damping off can also cause seeds to rot in the soil just as they begin to germinate.

Losing seedlings to damping off doesn't mean you're a failure at gardening. It's just an indication that you need to refine your seed-starting techniques. It can be very discouraging to lose seedlings to damping off, but this very common problem can be prevented.

A sterile, clean environment for seedlings is the key to preventing damping off. Do not use soil from the garden for starting seeds indoors. Not only is garden soil often infected with fungi that cause damping off, but it is also likely to compact too much for delicate seedlings. Always use a sterile soil less mixture for starting seeds. Coarse sand, milled sphagnum moss or even fine, clean aquarium gravel can be used as a seed-starting medium. Garden centers offer a variety of sterile soil less mixes that are made just for starting seeds.

No matter what medium is used for starting seeds, it should drain well and have a fairly low pH. Mixes with a pH of 6.4 or less are not as susceptible to damping off as those with a higher pH.

To prevent damping off, tap water should not be used on seedlings. Tap water can be alkaline in many cases and it will gradually increase the pH in the planting medium. Instead, use distilled water. If you know that your water is alkaline, you may also add a tablespoon of white vinegar to a gallon of filtered tap water and use that for watering your seedlings.

The planting medium should be kept moist but should never be soggy. Damping off fungi thrive in conditions that are too wet. Ideally, the medium should be watered from the bottom, rather than the top. To water from the bottom, simply place the flats or pots of seedlings in a shallow container of water until the planting medium has absorbed enough water to moisten it. Do not allow the flats or pots to remain in the water until the medium becomes waterlogged.

Good air circulation around the seedlings will also help to prevent damping off. Keep a fan running on low speed in the room with the seedlings at all times. The fan should not be blowing directly on the seedlings, it is only necessary to keep the air moving and circulating in the room.

Any gardening tools that are to be used when planting or caring for the seedlings need to be disinfected if they have also been used outdoors in the garden. Tools can be disinfected in a solution made with one part bleach and four parts water, or wipe them down with rubbing alcohol.

A fungicide may be applied to the seedlings, either as a soil drench if using a liquid fungicide, or a powdered fungicide can be mixed into the planting medium before planting the seeds. Some gardeners have found that damping off can be prevented by sprinkling ordinary powdered cinnamon on the surface of the planting medium, while others swear by the preventative effects of chamomile tea.

Hydrogen peroxide has also been used to prevent damping off. Use ordinary 3% hydrogen peroxide, the kind you can buy at a pharmacy or supermarket, mixing one cup with a gallon of distilled water, then mist the seedlings with this mixture.

Once your little seedlings have germinated, emerged and survived any threat of damping off, they should be placed under grow lights or in a bright, sunny window where they can begin to grow big and strong.

If the seedlings become spindly or they start to lean toward the light, they are trying their best to tell you that they need more light. If you're using grow lights, move the lights closer to the seedlings. If the seedlings are in a sunny window, they will need to be turned daily to give them adequate light, or they may need supplemental light.

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Caring for Cacti - A Short Guide

Caring for Cacti - A Short Guide
By Kat Ftacek

Although Cacti are very hardy and adaptable plants, they will thrive if you give them the right conditions.

Cacti are sun lovers and therefore if you plan to have them indoors, provide the brightest spot you can find as they will need at least 4 to 6 hours good light daily. If they are kept in a darker place they will still survive, but might stretch in search for light. Outside, they will like a sunny spot, but will also need some shade in the afternoon during the hottest days of summer. Even sun lovers like cacti can get burned by hot summer afternoon sun.

Plant your cacti in a well draining potting mix. Many nurseries sell bagged potting mix specially made for cacti and succulents. You can also make your own by adding sand and fine gravel to premium potting mix or follow the below recipe:

1 part organic compost
1 part horticultural sand
1 part coir
1 part vermiculite/perlite
1 part pine bark

In the growing season cacti will need good watering every couple of days, but the trick is to let the soil dry out between each watering. Your potting mix should be light, airy and well draining so the water can pass through, capture some moisture to get the roots wet but the water needs to drain away. If the roots of your cacti plants will sit in water they, and the whole plant will rot. The potting mix is the key. In winter cacti only need little water. Once every couple of weeks will be more than enough.

In the growing season your plants will benefit from fertilising. Good seaweed fertiliser diluted in water should do the trick. Add the fertiliser every second- third watering. You can also use slow release fertiliser- aim for low nitrogen and high phosphorus. In winter, there is no need to apply fertiliser.

Cacti can be used in pot arrangements, terrariums and also in the garden. They have fantastic landscaping potential and you can create an unusual raised garden bed with cactuses and other succulents. Gravel and rocks are often used to mimic desert environment.

Many cacti have sharp thorns and can cause serious injury, especially if a broken thorn is left in the skin. When handling cacti, wear thick gloves or use tweezers. Don't be fooled by the ones with softer or hair like thorns as they can penetrate the skin as well, can cause irritation and are extremely hard to see. To get them out, apply sticky tape on the wound and pull.

It is not hard to see why so many people become addicted to collecting cacti and using them in arrangements. The many different sizes, colours and shapes make them a great collectors plant and fantastic contender for arrangements.

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Black Thumb? 6 Hard To Kill Plants For Your Garden

Black Thumb? 6 Hard To Kill Plants For Your Garden
By Lawrence L. Hoyle

If you are one of the many who were not born with a Green Thumb, there are ways to get your garden off to a glowing start even though you were not voted 'gardener of the year' in your town. Many people are trying their hand at gardening for the first time, whether young new homeowners or those who are leaving the city to move to the suburbs, many are giving a garden a try, and there are several ways to make sure that it's successful. First of all, there are some plants that are just more finicky than others. If your plants for your garden are simply based on the fact that you like the look of that plant it is probably not going to turn out to be a very successful gardening venture for you. If you choose plants that are hardier than the average plant, your chances for success are much higher.

All plants have preferred growing conditions; however, there are some plants that are more sensitive to having their preferences met than others. There are plenty of plants and flowers that are hardy enough that their preferential growing conditions only have to be approximated, not met exactly. This is good news for the less skilled gardeners out there, not to mention that nobody can actually change the climate anyway. Of course, one can put flowers inside a greenhouse and then control the conditions inside of it to some extent, but if you want plants growing outside, there's really little that one can do aside from choosing a plant that should do well in your climate region and choosing the side of the house whose exposure most closely fits the desired light pattern for a particular plant.

The good news is that there are some plants that are just harder to kill than others. The six below are all excellent options for the new gardener.

1. English Ivy: This plant's beauty is unquestionable, and the plant is really quite hardy. It's difficult to kill and it does a fantastic job of really accenting your whole house instead of just being a single bush or tree in front of your house.

2. Yarrow: This beautiful wildflower spreads easily and looks lovely on open spaces like fields. You can get a lot of bang for your buck by planting Yarrow since it will cover a whole field and make the thing gorgeous.

3. Baby's Breath: This beautiful flower is hardy and it even can survive in dry soils that are more like sand than soil. Baby's Breath is not only an easy plant to grow for the beginning gardener, it's also a great flower to cut and decorate with whether freshly cut or dried.

4. Wood Fern: This basic plant doesn't add color, but the texture of this greenery is very special, a great addition to any garden and easy to grow.

5. Sneezeweed: It doesn't sound very pretty, but its gorgeous colors will brighten up any piece of land. The plant does well in dryer, prairie-like environments, which can often be a difficult zone to find plants that will grow there.

6. California Poppy: Featuring beautiful colors and able to grow in dry climates, these poppies will make your home into a beautiful oasis. Poppies grow easily and are easy to keep up. They also do a lovely job of spreading themselves so that you end up with a beautiful full field of poppies if you let the plant take its natural course.

Try your hand at these plants and you'll probably be pleasantly surprised by how much of a gardener you seem to be. Once you've got the hang of this, going on to more finicky plants will seem much easier.

Lawrence L. Hoyle, author, 54 years in the Landscape Profession. Check out his main website at: http://www.web-landscape-design-ideas.com. This website has free Landscape help for Do-It-Yourselves and a online Landscape Design Services for Homeowners, Landscape Contractors and Home Builders. Designs online since 2003 with designs in 40 states. Get your today.!

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Can Chickens and Gardens Co-Exist?

Can Chickens and Gardens Co-Exist?
By Cheryl D. Jones

Considering adding chickens to your garden plan? Read this article first.

Gardens and chickens co-existing is a debatable topic. There's some amount of literature out there regarding sustainable garden techniques for the homesteader using chickens in the garden as help, but when you get into reading suggestions on how this works you notice that a lot of advice centers around keeping chickens OUT of the garden with a few exceptions. And a lot of seasoned gardeners and chicken keepers will agree with this sentiment. Yes, it's true - generally, chickens are adorable destructive forces of nature that happen to thank you with eggs sometimes, but that's not enough thanks when it comes to the total destruction of your flower beds. Is it even possible to allow chickens and your gardens existing, together, permanently and happily? Well, we're here to tell you that it IS possible under the right circumstances. Indeed- it is!

Over years of trial and error and patience, and through lots of research and discussion among fellow gardeners, homesteaders, and backyard chicken keepers, we've compiled a general guide on how to make chickens and gardens exist together happily. And it's possible to make it happen no matter where you live or how you live, or how many birds you have- given a few adjustments and reality checks.

A lot of people will recommend keeping chickens in an enclosed run, which solves all of these issues of course. And for many reasons, keeping chickens in a run is a great idea. There are many of us however that acknowledge the dangers of free range and risk it for the benefits. This article pertains to these chicken keepers and garden diggers.

Accept that there are plants that will always be targets for chickens.

First of all, there are plants that it will be impossible to allow chickens access to without complete disaster. Consider most anything you find edible, whether they are leafy greens or fruiting plants, to be on the menu. Chickens will obsessively devour these foods, dig up shallow growing potatoes and devour them, and jump up to high tomatoes on tall vines for a chance at a peck into a sweet and juicy tomato. Even older, experienced chickens that turn their noses up to a treat of lettuce will still eat it and scratch it to nothings, even if there are plenty of bugs and worms abound- given enough time. We've compiled a list of edibles that chickens will most certainly destroy, and if you grow these with free ranging chickens, your only hope is completely closing these plants off from chickens with good fencing.

*Tomatoes

*Peas

*Berries of all kinds

*Leafy greens

*Most all kitchen herbs, especially the new green fleshy growth

*Squashes, summer and winter, and even gourds

*Beans

*Corn

*Quinoa

*Sorghum

*Short sunflowers

*Amaranth

*Ground Cherries

*Tomatillos

*Sweet, mild, and even screaming hot peppers

*Eggplant

And anything else that you find tasty, they will too. There have been some exceptions. For example, in my experience I have yet to have chickens destroy the roots of root crops, but they devour the tops. I've heard of chickens scratching up potatoes and eating them but mine have yet to do that to my potato patch, and mine have generally left the greens of the tomatoes alone.

Give them space, and minimal fencing works.

The good news is, if your chickens have access to lots of productive foraging area, they generally leave the greens alone. They also become easily distracted and even small fences that they can't really figure out seem to annoy them enough that they don't bother trying to surmount the barrier problem. For example, my flock of ten hens and a rooster are kept out of garden beds with two foot high chicken wire fences with about a half-acre of area that they free range in. That's it. Plants will grow over the tops of the fences and sometimes get nipped, but my chickens won't bother trying to leap a chicken wire fence if they have plenty of other things to do and eat. It's also been reported that short picket fences of about the same height have the same effect. As long as a chicken can't easily crawl under or through a gap, as long as there's lots of room to occupy their minds and their bellies they give up on barriers pretty quick. A short picket or chicken wire fence is cheap, easy and quick to install too.

There are some ornamental plants, such has plants you'd put in containers like short growing salvias, petunias, calendula, impatiens, coleus, and others that chickens like to eat too. Include these in inaccessible areas or baskets like high hanging baskets or window boxes, and you won't have a problem.

With the right plants, you can enjoy the benefits of the scratching and pecking!

Honestly, there's a lot that chickens do that HELP plants, with all of the scratching, pooping, and pecking that they do. Around the bases of my established shrubs and trees, they clean out weeds and grubs, and they pick off bugs from plants, off of the ground, and even right out of the air! Since we established chickens on our property, we've noticed a drastic reduction in mosquitos, as chickens pick larvae out of pools and the pond, and they will eat mosquitos buzzing around in the air. Chickens can help keep containers of unruly petunias bushy and neat by their incessant pecking at new growth although this has to be watched. There are perennial plants that chickens seem to generally ignore that work fantastically in the landscape too, and are quickly filling in the beds that chickens have access to.

These plants include:

*Daylilies

*Liatris

*Hardy sages

*Hardy lavenders

*Evergreens such as junipers and pines

*Creeping thyme

*Penstemons

*Hollyhocks and all malva

*Marigolds

*Hens and Chicks

*Yucca

*Sedums

*Astilbes

*Jacobs ladder

*Aruncus (all types it seems)

*Native North American prairie grasses and plants in general

*Pulmonaria

There are many others, and a lot of discovering what plants your chickens will leave alone will center on a lot of trial and error. For example, I hear from plenty of other chicken keepers that their ferns and hosta are completely ignored by chickens, yet mine were devoured right away after my chickens discovered my shade garden.

Keeping mulch in the garden is a bit of a chore with chickens, but a weekly rake helps to not only remove the weeds the chickens miss (like those little woody tree sprouts!) and a chance to add more mulch and check your landscape for health and problems (and enjoy of course!).

If you want birds but still aren't convinced... get ducks.

And, if your heart is set on a couple of farm-ish birds for pets and eggs and for hopeful garden help and still aren't willing to risk your hard work in the garden, consider the humble duck. Ducks are gentle on the garden, eat the bugs, fertilize as they go, but won't scratch or destroy your plants. There has been one exception to this in my experience. My poor elephant ear bulb sprouts haven't stood a chance with ducks, but that's been my only bad experience. Those wide floppy feet do walk over plants but they never do damage. Ducks will decimate slug, snail and grub problems very quickly, and for the quick bird they'll destroy grasshopper populations as well. Even in a small yard, a small barrier keeps them out too. And on a husbandry note, ducks are quiet and healthy animals if you compare them to chickens, and are less needy. A duck or two might just be a better option for the gardener!

Chickens and gardens are possible under careful consideration and many exceptions. We hope that this article gives you hope and a better idea of what to expect when keeping a garden and chickens together.

Cheryl D. Jones, shares gardening tips and landscape ideas through her blog, newsletters and her nursery's website.
Visit GreenwoodNursery for Chicken Coops and plants for that area as well as a full line of garden plants including trees, flowering shrubs, perennials, ornamental grasses and ground covers.
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How to Create Your Own Secret Garden With Shrub Roses and More That Offer Privacy and Beauty

How to Create Your Own Secret Garden With Shrub Roses and More That Offer Privacy and Beauty
By Cheryl D. Jones

My family and I have literally grown like garden components. So it doesn't surprise me to be asked, "How might I grow my own secret garden?" The question immediately puts me in mind of rows of stunning shrub roses in a variety of colors and heights, each grown to conceal something even more stunning behind it.

Even though I was not surprised, I did step back in deep consideration. One cannot respond to such a delicious question with a flippant answer. One must instead determine before any response might be given what the asker means, needs, and wants.

Elements of a Secret Garden Create Spaces of Respite

Among the things I imagine when I think of my little girl days reading The Secret Garden are:

* Wonder

* Surprise

* Magic

* Beauty

* Nature

* Sense of Hope and Peace

Achieving any or all of these elements requires understanding of what thrives within your zone, climate, and soil. Sun and water play roles, too, of course. But with the right understanding of your particular space, anyone might create the dramatic sense of beauty and possibility that Burnett illustrated so beautifully via words.

Shrub Roses Represent Hope in Sorrow

In her novel, one first focusing on sorrow and death and then on the potential for joy where life is cultivated, specifically in a garden, Burnett uses shrub roses as a symbol for the hope a garden represents. Orphaned, unlikable Mary discovers the secret garden behind the dense wall of roses that appear to be dead but truly only need loving care. A robin, which she describes as "prettier than anything else in the world" helps her to discover the key to a little door hidden in the dense foliage of the roses, and this reveals far greater mystery than one might expect the vines to hide.

Within the wall of shrub roses, Mary discovers the first spikes of bulb grown flowers--crocuses, daffodils, perhaps tulips, and determines that the garden is quite alive if neglected. Now, the lonely ten-year-old imagines a project to entertain herself, but what the garden promises and delivers is far more profound than entertainment.

Everyone deserves the pleasure of both a private place to meditate and ruminate AND the opportunity to reveal within themselves creative potential for growing something wonderful. Growing your own secret garden stands to connect you better with the planet, nature, and your Self.

Your Secret Garden Cultivates Harmony

Looking back to the secret garden Mary's story revealed behind that shrub rose wall, I know exactly how to answer the question. To get started, it is important to put yourself in the right frame of mind. First, allow yourself to imagine great garden possibility. Next ask yourself what you would grow in a space all your own. Finally, envision peace, tranquility, and magic. When you feel yourself ready to cultivate kindness and compassion, harmony such as a garden represents, follow these steps to cultivate mystery and privacy in your garden:

*Choose an area that provides ample space for garden construction

*Mark the lines of your future garden wall

*Leave a space for your own garden gate or door

*Select fast-growing, disease resistant roses (I recommend Oso Easy Shrub Roses)

*Plant these 3 to 4' apart

*Fertilize and Water accordingly

Once you have planted your roses, you can move forward with other garden plans. Within the area guarded by the roses, imagine beds of flowers that bring color, fragrance, textures, and varied bloom times to the garden. Intermingle rhizomes, bulbs, and webby roots for a variety of grow styles and to extend your bloom season. With the right planning, your secret garden will bloom from early spring to frost. In some areas, year-round blooms may be possible.

And remember, a little robin guided Mary, so be sure to plant berries and other food and habitat providers. Food-bearing plants offer beautiful blooms, dense foliage, and tasty fruits for both wildlife and humans.

Cheryl D. Jones, shares gardening tips and landscape ideas through her blog, newsletters and her nursery's website. Check out our selection of plants for a Secret Garden to get started with yours!
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Rose Rosette Disease - This Deadly Virus Is Attacking Even the Knock-Out Roses

Rose Rosette Disease - This Deadly Virus Is Attacking Even the Knock-Out Roses
By Cheryl D. Jones

Rose Rosette Disease symptoms can look like some other rose diseases that aren't as serious, so before you begin removing affected plants it's best to be certain your roses actually have the dreaded disease.

Here are common symptoms of Rose Rosette to look for:

>Stressed growth in leaves, canes, and blooms. This appears as growth that doesn't look normal. Stunted, dwarfed growth in canes, narrow leaves, and odd looking blooms.

>Bunching of stems, clustering, broom like appearance of stems giving it the name of witches broom of roses.

>Bright red leaves and stems (not always abnormal, as in many rose cultivars, fresh new growth can be red or crimson). Look for mottled coloration and redness that doesn't go away. This growth will also appear unusual.

>Overall decline and eventual death of the plant.

Rose Rosette Disease is caused by a virus that is spread by a mite that feeds on roses called eriophyid mite also known as the rose leaf curl mite. These are not spider mites, but much smaller mites that are almost impossible to see with the naked human eye. They move on wind currents from rose to rose. It's thought that this virus first showed up in wild, native rose populations in the US. It then spread to multiflora roses which are considered invasive, imported from Asia to serve as a plant solution for windbreaks and screens. From these invasive roses, the virus spread to infect landscape roses including the once thought to be disease resistant Knock-Out Roses series, and the Drift series.

Because gardeners and landscapers have relied so heavily on both the Knock-Out and Drift series of roses for their ease of care and beauty, the Rose Rosette Disease has done a lot of damage in wide areas. It's not known why some roses still seem resistant to Rose Rosette, but it's been shown that Knock-Out and Drift roses are not immune.

What do you need to do if your roses have the Rose Rosette disease?

>Destroy the plant - dig up plant and roots, then bag and destroy

>Limit use of the surrounding soil

>Remove multiflora roses within 100 yards of roses - if cannot then try not to plant roses downwind from the multiforas

>Watch for regrowth from any remaining roots and remove

>Avoid planting any new rose varieties back in the same soil

My ag inspector who lives down the road, stopped by recently and we talked about this rose issue. Her information said the soil where diseased plants were located could be tainted for up to 5 years.

Preventing Rose Rosette Disease

The mite is extremely difficult to kill, as typical mite killing chemicals don't often work well on this species of mite. However, some pesticides may offer some protection such as Sevin, bifenthrin, horticultural oils and insecticidal soap when applied weekly during June and July.

The best course of action is prevention. When receiving your roses, inspect them carefully and look for the above signs of Rose Rosette. Only plant disease-free rose plants. When planting, give your roses plenty of room to breathe and allow air to circulate, as this can help keep the mites from spreading from one plant to another, although this isn't very foolproof. And finally, don't rely on one type of rose in your landscape. We're not referring to color. Instead choose different species. If there are multiflora roses growing wild nearby, consider destroying them if possible as the mite can catch a summer breeze to your roses.

We hope this helps you avoid and end your infestation of Rose Rosette. It's a heartbreaking disease, but with proper prevention and planning, you can avoid or diminish its effects on your garden and landscape.

We are committed to monitoring the new growth of our roses coming in from different growers. The Knockout and Drift Roses are anticipated to be in short supply over the next couple of years as many growers will be discontinuing their growing rights for these plants due to this terrible disease.

I will keep in conversation with my agricultural agent on this topic and update you as new or more information is revealed. In the meantime, the best prevention is to plant different rose varieties and continually search your area for multiflora rose bushes as the source of this problem.

Cheryl D. Jones loves to share gardening tips and landscape ideas through her blog, newsletters and her nursery's website.
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Why Should You Plant A Food Garden

Why Should You Plant A Food Garden
By Shaun Swilling

In the same size as a double-bed you can feed your family every day with organically grown fresh vegetables in just a few months. If you have some property in your back yard or you live in the city and have only a single bed size to spare, it is easier than you think.

Today people are able to get all the required to start a food garden that will fit on the balcony of an apartment. One can purchase containers that can drain the soil as required, or one could even test the quality of the soil created to very precise measurements.

For less than $50 you can purchase potting soil and containers, with a few dollars spent on seeds you, will be able to feed your family after a few months. You will get a lot more than good health because of the improved efficiency of your metabolism and how your body detoxifies itself. You will also hopefully discover that 'connection' which created our bodies millions of year ago.

Our digestion is not built to digest unprocessed organic foods, even 100 years after the invention of junk and processed foods we still see no adaptation to our ability to withstand these toxic onslaughts that go through us every day. When we put our hands in the soil there is a possibility that we can find that 'connection' with our creator.

There is a reciprocity that you can feel, even though it may take a few months of eating organic foods, you will feel that there is more than just the growing of a carrot or potato in your food garden. However good or bad it might feel to be see something grow that you were responsible for, you will know deep inside that you are making that 'connection.'

Whether you believe in the bible or not, the metaphor of the Garden of Eden is something we can scientifically prove. Any contemporary dietitian or nutritionist will tell you to stay away from processed foods and rather eat organic foods that are without toxins.

The Paleo Diet based on the "The Primal Blueprint" written by Mark Sisson has been extensively researched proving that our genetic ability to handle processed food is not getting any better. The highly processed foods we eat every day how now shown to cause diseases Cancer and Diabetes that increase every year at an alarming rate with diabetes now the fastest growing disease on the planet.

The only solution is to do something about it so we can 'connect' to the reason why the creator put us here in the first place. Our genetic predisposition when eating correctly gives us increased efficiency when consuming organic foods and health as a result becomes self-evident.

The basic foundation on which our bodies started to evolve over millions of years is built on eating foods that our bodies are originally designed to eat. The same can be applied to treating a new auto-mobile exactly as specified by the manufacturer.

A car will last a lot longer if treated correctly, a healthy auto-mobile will outlive any unhealthy badly treated auto-mobile. If the car is treated correctly as indicated by the manufacturers it will last a lot longer than not caring for it.

If we follow the directions as indicated by our creator based on solid research done on the best foods to eat. With all the state of the art science we have available we still cannot find a better way to feed ourselves than by eating organically grown foods as indicated by our creator. Science has still not found a better way to feed ourselves.

Creating a food garden should be the topic of conversation at all dinner tables around the world. It starts with education and knowing that this 'connection' is possible by simply feeding oneself in the most efficient way because we are what we eat.

If you are interested in growing an organic food garden Brian Howard has written down 9 simple steps to get the process started: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/gardening/organic-gardening-tips-460309#slide-1

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Choosing the Right Garden Shed

Choosing the Right Garden Shed
By Guy D Tomlinson

Sometimes looking for the right shed for your garden can be harder than you may expect. If you are looking around for one, you will probably be surprised by the choices available to you. There are a whole range of different designs and materials to choose from, and the costs of each may vary. By not fully understanding the difference between what types of shed are available to you, you might feel a little overwhelmed when trying to reach a decision. When looking for garden sheds you will usually find that the most popular material for a shed is wood or concrete.

When you have reached the decision about buying a new shed a good point to consider is the base it requires. If you are thinking of replacing your existing shed, then you would have to decide whether or not to keep the original base, or for a small fee and with minimal effort, a new one can be laid for you.

Whatever material you choose to have your shed made from your decision should revolve around what you need the shed for. Is it going to be just for storage or maybe a workshop? Perhaps you want it for both, in which case a larger shed is probably necessary. The size of the shed should also fit well into the space available. Make sure you take precise measurements of various parts of the shed. A good tip is to check the eaves and ridge height of the sheds to make sure you can stand up in it and also that it is a usable space to fit in and move around comfortably.

So what else will you have to consider when choosing your shed:

Are you going to be storing large items, you will need to take careful measurements to ensure that not only all the goods can be stored, but that you can also get the items in and out with ease.

If you are going to store large items then a concrete shed with double doors could be a good option. Concrete sheds are very popular due to their durable build and great safety record, and with the double doors it would make accessing the shed a lot easier.

The panels used in concrete sheds are virtually impenetrable which, coupled with some good quality uPVC windows and doors, means your items will be very safe.

A concrete shed also provides better security from the elements and from thieves than a typical timber shed. This is because it is made from more durable, watertight material that makes it less susceptible to damage from the elements. As it is a lot stronger, a new, well maintained concrete shed would probably be inaccessible to most if not all burglars.

Concrete sheds do not rot unlike wooden sheds, so rodents and other pests will struggle to gain access to a concrete shed compared to a timber structure.

Other aspects to consider are the windows and doors. Some sheds come with windows and some don't. If you want to keep your items out of sight then it is a good idea not to have any windows, but make sure you have sufficient lighting installed so you can see when you are inside. If, on the other hand you are going to use your garden shed for a home office then windows would be a good idea, perhaps one that opens to improve ventilation.

The shed design is also something to take into account, particularly the shed roof. The most common are Apex, which is a two sided sloping roof with a ridge running along its length and a Pent, which is flat with a slight slope to allow rainwater to run off. Some people prefer the aesthetic appearance of the Apex, whilst others prefer the practicality and generally lower cost of the Pent. Apex designs can also be specified to have translucent roof panels to let in natural light, perfect if you wish to work inside your garden shed.

When thinking about location, you need to consider access, proximity to trees, bushes and garden beds etc. You shouldn't really put a shed in an area that is susceptible to heavy rainfalls as standing water may rot a water shed. Although a concrete shed isn't subject to this problem. Try to make sure you have at least two feet of space around all sides of the shed to allow for access for maintenance. A wooden shed would need regular treatment of the wood but a concrete shed requires little or no maintenance, which means you can find more interesting things to do with your days off rather than painting the shed.

As you can see there are a number of important things to consider when thinking of buying a garden shed. Location, shed design, use and of course cost. By taking these things into consideration when selecting your shed you could avoid problems in the future.

I have been landscape gardening for over 25 years and specialise in both hard and soft landscaping. To find out more about garden landscaping please visit my website here http://www.aspirelandscaping.co.uk/landscaping-sheffield-and-chesterfield.php

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How to Plant in Clay Soil

How to Plant in Clay Soil
By Michael J McGroarty

Some gardeners have fertile malleable soil in their backyards, and many have clay in their backyards. Does having a clay based soil damper any future hopes of a garden. No! absolutely not. How to plant in clay soil; well, that takes patience and work.

Planting in clay soil is great for the vegetation that have roots strong enough to break through the hardened ground and compacted clay. Amending an area to make suitable for gardening other types of vegetation is doable. The main idea to remember is to amend an entire area NOT just a single hole for the desired plant to root.

Why is it important to improve the soil structure in an entire area rather a single location? If a gardener focuses on a single location once the plant roots it will grow root length only as far and wide as the hole that was amended. Once the roots reach the soil that is clay the roots will grow inward as they are unable to penetrate through the unforgiving clay soil. The plant may survive, but it will be severely root bound.

Checking soil quality is very important, drainage of the soil is imperative. I also researched a multitude of opinions on the best practices of checking soil quality, and the one common factor each opinion offered is to check more than one or two locations in the ground. Some locations of your yard may require different types or amounts of amendments making it even more important to check the soil's texture in multiple locations. Dig a hole one foot deep fill it with water wait for it to drain, refill to the top, and time how long it takes to empty.

Proper drainage of the soil helps plant growth. If the water drains to slowly you more than likely have clay, but if it drains to rapidly, It will not be able to retain water or plant nutrients for healthy plant growth. In soil where the water drainage is faster than cup and hour the soils may have too much sand. In cases of clay soil with poor drainage mixing builder's sand or compost (annually) will improve soil quality.

Adding organic amendments to the soil lightens soil texture, discourages compacting clay, adds nutrients, improves drainage and aeration, and moderates soil temperature, and provides pore space. Amend clay soil with organic matter, decomposed organic matter, (if you can tell what it is it is not decomposed enough) by working the compost into the soil.

Using undecomposed organic matter such as wood chips or mulch are great for on top of the soil, but should not be worked into the clay soil during the growing season. the reason it is not suggested during growing season, the undecomposed matter will continue its decomposition and rob the soil of further nitrogen to aid in its process. Sometimes it is referred to as a work in progress when using material that has not fully reach compost.

During the winter months its is fine to use the under decomposed material, the finishing touches of turning to compost will occur during the non growing season, I know there is always an exception to the rule.

The most important aspect to remind yourself, clay soil can be great soil if amendments are made. If you have questions about the pH levels in you soil don't hesitate to contact your local County Extension Service and request a soil sample be taken.

Many locations offer this service for free. Don't lose hope on the prospect of blossoms in your backyard. Soil can be amended to support healthy vegetation.

http://www.mikesbackyardnursery.com

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